June 3 Devotion: Pilgrimage Story Part 1

 What we see here is not the house church mentioned in the letter to the Laodiceans in the Book of Revelation, but rather the remains of an early church building constructed around the 4th century.

“So, because you are lukewarm—neither hot nor cold—I am about to spit you out of my mouth.” (Revelation 3:16)

We departed from San Francisco on the evening of Sunday, May 18, and arrived in Istanbul at 5:30 p.m. on May 19. After a simple dinner and checking into our hotel, we left again at 3:30 a.m. the next morning to catch a domestic flight to a city called Denizli. This small airport is near Colossae, Laodicea, Pamukkale, and Hierapolis, and it marked the beginning of our pilgrimage journey.

Colossae Region

Our first stop was the Colossae area. As we drove by, we observed the site from our vehicle windows. Only the name of the place remains—no significant ruins are left. Colossae, Laodicea, and Hierapolis form a triangular region connected by the Royal Road, which dates back to the ancient Near East. This route once spanned east to west, used by powerful empires for military and trade campaigns. It's fascinating to think that even Cyrus the Great led his army through this very region.

Church of Laodicea

Our second destination was Laodicea—the church rebuked for its lukewarm faith, being neither hot nor cold. This region naturally evokes the imagery of lukewarmness, with snowmelt from the mountains mixing with hot spring water in the valley below. The Laodicean Christians would have clearly understood the metaphor John used in Revelation.

Although we don’t know how exactly the church responded to the rebuke, a large early church building (dated around the 4th century) has been excavated in the ruins of the city. Remarkably, a terracotta sewage system from that time still remains.

Pamukkale Lunch ("Cotton Castle")

Our third stop was Pamukkale, which means “Cotton Castle”—named so because from a distance, the mountain appears wrapped in white cotton. We had lunch at a restaurant humorously named Po-Jang-Ma-Cha (a Korean word meaning food stall). It’s a restaurant run by a local Turk, but it clearly caters to the many Korean pilgrims who visit. The meal consisted of lamb chops followed by Shin Ramyun (a Korean instant noodle dish) for dessert—an unexpected but memorable combination.

Hierapolis – City of Peace

After lunch, we entered Hierapolis, located just behind Pamukkale. The name means “City of Peace.” When the Pergamon dynasty ended without an heir, the kingdom voluntarily merged with Rome and dedicated this city to the empire.

Hierapolis is famous for its hot springs and became known as a city of healing. The Temple of Athena here was surrounded by sulfur gas vents, and the priests would lead sacrifices into the fumes. While the animal would die, the priests—holding their breath—would emerge unharmed, leading people to believe this place had mystical powers.

This city holds spiritual significance for us because it is briefly mentioned in the Book of Colossians. Like Laodicea, it is believed that a church was founded here by Epaphras.

The Tomb of Apostle Philip

In 2014, archaeologists successfully excavated what is believed to be the tomb of the Apostle Philip, and a memorial church now stands at the site.

There are four Philips mentioned in the Bible, but two are significant for us. The first is Apostle Philip, originally from Galilee, who was martyred here in Hierapolis. The second is Philip the Evangelist, one of the seven deacons. He fled Jerusalem during the persecution that followed Stephen’s martyrdom and later baptized the Ethiopian eunuch and preached the gospel in Samaria, where the Holy Spirit came upon the people.

At the Church in Front of Philip’s Tomb

We visited the memorial church and stood in front of Apostle Philip’s tomb—a solemn and meaningful moment.

Finishing the Day at Pamukkale

Afterwards, we returned to Pamukkale and dipped our feet in the warm waters. Although it once overflowed with water, the springs are no longer as abundant, which is unfortunate.

And with that, our journey for the day came to a close.

Prayer

Lord,As I stand upon the land of Laodicea, I reflect on the state of my soul.I examine whether my faith has grown lukewarm.I confess that I may have lived under the illusion of being rich, failing to realize how much I need You.Once again, I knock on Your door.I open my heart to You.Restore me to stand firm in passionate faith,and lead me back into deep communion with You.Grant me the grace of renewal in this sacred place.

In Jesus’ name I pray, Amen.